The Way of the Onsen

For most of us, colder weather has set in, and it seems like an awfully long time until spring! What better way to beat the chill than a holiday escape that not only warms your bones, but improves your health as well?

Beneath the ground, heat from the Earth’s core comes into contact with ground water. The scalding water works its way upward, warming rocks and soil until collecting in the pores of the earth, forming geothermal hot springs. Hot springs have been praised for their comfort and health benefits – mostly due to their high mineral content – for hundreds of years and have received millions of visitors around the globe since ancient history.

What are the benefits?

- opening peripheral blood vessels which helps to improve circulation to the body’s extremities

- eliminating toxins while increasing metabolism and absorption of essential minerals

- steam bathing allows for a comprehensive cleansing of the skin and sweat glands

- increased body temperature helps kill harmful germs and viruses

- soaking in warm water has proven to provide relief from arthritis, spine disease, disk problems, stenosis, circulation problems, asthma, and chronic bronchitis

Choosing your hot springs destination can be a daunting task – there are hundreds scattered around the globe, each with their unique style and atmosphere. For now, we’ve picked a few of our favorites:

- For those dreaming of a European Christmas, check out the Szechenyi Baths in Budapest. Once upon a time, Budapest was called Ak-ink, or “Abundant Water,” and has been celebrated for its curative baths since Roman times. The Szechenyi Baths are an enormous, sprawling neo-Baroque complex located in the middle of City Park, housing 12 indoor and outdoor pools of different size, temperature, and mineral content, as well saunas, steam rooms, cold plunges, and a spa. Locals and tourists alike can be found lazing about in the steamy waters year-round, swimming, playing, and chatting.

- Heart set on a tropical destination? Cruise on over to Hot Water Beach in Waikato, New Zealand – and bring a shovel! Located just south of the North Island’s Mercury Bay, for two hours before and after low tide, your hand-dug pool will fill with spring-fed water laced with calcium, magnesium, potassium, silica, and fluorine at a scalding 147°F (use regular ocean water to lower the temperature). Take some time to relax between trips to the warm summer waters of the Pacific Ocean – just a stone’s throw away – or watch the sun set from your private, sandy tub. At the end of the evening, the incoming tides wash the sand back into the holes, erasing the evidence.

- If the family would like to play it a little closer to home this year, nothing beats the remote beauty of Dunton Hot Springs in Dolores, Colorado. Originally used an oasis by weary Ute Indians, and then later by American miners, Dunton offers the perfect blend of a luxurious, all-inclusive resort experience with an intimate commune with nature under an open sky. Dunton is a perfectly restored ghost town nestled into the San Juan Mountains of the Colorado Rockies that blends five-star accommodations with the natural architecture, saloon and all. Spend your time soaking for hours on end, or partake in numerous winter activities that include helicopter skiing, snowshoeing, fly-fishing, and more.

- For families with younger children or large groups, travel south to The Springs Resort & Spa in Costa Rica. The Springs is an oasis straight out of Jurassic Park, situated outside of La Fortuna on a shared ridge with the Arenal Volcano. The volcanic activity provides the heat for the natural mineral springs, which The Springs pipes into several pools and natural waterfalls throughout the resort. Due to a naturally high chlorinate content, these springs have the benefit of being organically sanitized. In addition to a whole slew of tropical activities and adventures, The Springs also operates a preserve for Costa Rican wildlife, including pumas, ocelots, monkeys, and birds – the nature-lover’s dream come true!

- Last, but not least, for all those in search of a truly authentic hot springs experience from the masters, your destination is Gora Kadan outside Tokyo in the Hakone National Park. While hot springs exist around the world, Japan is a particular hot spot for “onsen.” A Western-friendly traditional ryokan, Gora Kadan offers complete cultural immersion in an unparalleled atmosphere of luxury and relaxation. Rice-paper doors, tatami mat floors, authentic wood architecture, and open-air tubs are but a few details that comprises this gem. If your family is in the mood for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, Gora Kadan will not disappoint.

Camping in Style

Educating our children on the remaining treasures of the Earth is essential to planning a greener, more environmentally conservative future. Today most consumer products come with a “green,” “recycled,” or “eco-friendly” option, and travel has been no exception! As the global population approaches the 7 billion mark, it is important to consider how we can access world heritage sites without detrimentally depleting local resources or harming vital ecosystems, and how to coach our kids on responsible tourism.

So how exactly does the luxury traveler consider a low-impact family adventure without giving up the five-star atmosphere? While several options exist, deluxe camping is not only a highly self-sustaining practice, but also provides an intimate, educational family experience that is simply unachievable within conventional luxury settings.

Consider these examples:

- After a day of learning about the Mala Man and watching the sun set on the Kantju Gorge, return to your intimate 15-tent camp to a gourmet, 3-course dinner under a blanket of stars. Retire to a canvas-roof, air conditioned deluxe accommodation atop a red sand dune facing Uluru. Longitude 131 in Central Australia was constructed with preserving the local environment in mind. Completely sustained by solar power, Logitude 131 offers an intimate, luxurious experience within an expansive living cultural landscape, as well as an education on the unique history of the Outback.

- Depart from the traditional park reserves and join the Maasai Mara in the Chyulu Hills of southern Kenya (the Green Hills of Africa of Ernest Hemmingway) at Campi ya Kanzi. Campi ya Kanzi, meaning “Camp of Hidden Treasure,” is dedicated to sharing an authentic experience of an iconic Africa, rich in wildlife, wilderness, and culture without subjecting its patrons to the hustle and bustle of busier commercial cities and properties. After a quiet night’s sleep in your luxurious thatched roof, tented room, complete with feather bed, begin your day with tea on your private veranda overlooking Mt. Kilimanjaro. Options for the day include National Park excursions, Maasai cultural villages visits with your own personal Maasai tracker, Cloud Forest walks, bird watching, and more. All accommodations have been constructed from local materials (without a single tree cut!) and provide both electricity and hot water via state-of-the-art solar power system.

- Follow in the footsteps of the Patagonian natives, the Kawesqar, who built their geodesic huts along the dismembered coast. Ecocamp Patagonia hosts an intimate, luxurious group of geodesic huts (a cross between an igloo and a dome) amidst the magical flora and fauna of the Torres del Paine National Park, Chile. Each day at Ecocamp offers the opportunity to follow the Kawesqar’s example of communing with “mother nature:” horseback riding within the virgin beech forests, observing Chilean condors from the southern face of Paine Massif, or kayak expeditions to the colossal calving glaciers. Each night, return to the organic wood-and-leather comforts of your dome, warmed by a low-emission wood stove. Hot showers and electricity are provided via solar and wind energy.

While camping – even luxurious camping – may not be every family’s cup of tea, try to consider destinations that utilize energy-efficient power and water supplies, and contribute to the native community. Several deluxe properties take advantage of the growing “green” trend with renewable building materials, low carbon emissions, and energy efficient appliances. Look for buildings with LEED certifications – they are the leaders in environmentally sensitive construction.

Thailand, Laos, & Burma – Eastern & Oriental Express + Road to Mandalay – February 20 – March 4, 2010

I had the great fortune to recently join Cindy Holloway on the Eastern & Oriental Express on its first journey into Laos and then on the Road To Mandalay from Yangon to Mandalay, both of which were extraordinary experiences.

First we stayed at The Sukhothai, a serene alternative to the hustle and bustle of the Mandarin Peninsula. The rooms are very large and have wonderful bathrooms with a contemporary, very luxurious ambience. The pool, spa, and restaurant were great, and the service was excellent.

Next was The Mandarin Oriental, the Grande dame of Bangkok hotels. It has a very traditional décor and old world atmosphere. The lobby is a constant buzz of activity and star sightings… the Crown Princess of Thailand was coming in as we checked in! The service is impeccable – there is butler service on all floors – and there are many restaurant choices: Chinese, Thai, French, Seafood, Italian, riverside, etc…

Directly across the river from the Mandarin Oriental is the Peninsula, a very contemporary and luxurious option for those who prefer high tech to charm. They have a large spa, several small swimming pools that are tucked in alongside the hotel, and several restaurants. They also have a complimentary water shuttle.

While in Bangkok, I spent two days touring with a guide and driver arranged through Trails of Indochina. The guide, Lee, was flexible and very personable.

We boarded the Eastern & Oriental Express in Bangkok for its inaugural journey into Laos. The train is beautifully appointed. There are two suites that are slightly larger than the staterooms, with bigger bathrooms, inclusive mini-bar, and their own sound system. Staterooms are extremely comfortable with a day bed, two chairs, table, and small but efficient bathroom. Both the suites and the staterooms are made up with two twin beds while you are at dinner. Breakfast is served in your cabin, and the cabin coverts back when you get off the train to tour in the morning.

Our first afternoon and evening were spent traveling Northeast through Thailand. We were treated to a conversation with fellow guest William Warren, author of many books including “The Unsolved Mystery of Jim Thompson.” There was also a palm reader on board, as well as a fruit lecture/tasting. Lots of fun!

On our first full day, we visited ruins of Phimai, a world heritage site on the old route to Angkor, and the largest complex of Khmer ruins in Thailand. After lunch on board, we visited a lovely family run wintery, Granmonte, in the Asoke Valley. The Thai wine industry is young but promising.

The next morning we made the historic crossing of the friendship bridge spanning the Mekong River into Laos. We disembarked in Vientiane, where we spent a full day touring That Luang, Patuxai Victory Gate, a Lao Textile museum, and Wat Si Saket with lunch at the colonial style Settha Palace Hotel.

Half of the passengers stayed in Laos, likely travelling north. We returned through the night to Bangkok. From Bangkok we flew to Rangoon/Yangon, the (former) capital of Burma/Myanmar. We spent our first night at the beautiful Governor’s Residence hotel, an exceptional Orient Express property in the embassy district of the city. The hotel appears colonial, but is a new property. The rooms are spacious, there is a beautiful garden where meals can be taken, an inviting swimming pool and wonderful upstairs porch perfect for reading, napping, or playing a little pool. You could easily spend a week at this hotel alone. Franz, the hotel and boat manager, is an interesting fellow who enriched our stay with wonderful stories and introductions to local expatriates.

Our next day we flew from Yangon to Bagon on a small prop plane. A little scary on the aircraft, but the flight is wonderful as you fly north and see hundreds of temples and pagodas from the air. We were greeted by our exceptional guide, San, and drove to the riverbank where the Road to Mandalay was docked. The Irrawady River was exceptionally low for this time of year, which made our journey logistically challenging. We had to take small fishing boats from the river bank out to the boat, adding to the charm.

The Road to Mandaly was damaged 18 months ago in a cyclone that practically snapped her in two, but the rebuild/renovation is spectacular. The cabins were reduced to 43, and are spacious and extremely comfortable. The boat has a small spa, gift shop, spacious dining room, piano bar, lounge, and upper deck with pool, ample seating, and where lunch is served.

The guides are employed by the boat and travel with you – and are excellent!

We spent our first afternoon exploring the temples and local villages of Bagan, enjoying the magnificent sunset from the top of one of the 3000+ temples in the 36 square kilometer area around Bagan. The next morning we started early, enjoying more walking through Bagan and local villages. This is also a great place to do a balloon ride to appreciate the scope of the landscape covered in Buddhist temples, pagodas and stuppas. By mid-morning we were sailing towards Sagaing, which is 30 kilometers south of Mandalay. This is as far as the river would allow us to go, but normally you would sail into Manadaly, which is a magnificent sight with gleaming gold pagodas covering the hillsides. We visited Sagaing and Mandalay by road.

Burma is a mysterious country, closed to the world for so many years, and still oppressed by an unnoticeable, but intimidating military dictatorship. The people are happy, well fed, and placated by Buddhism.

La Samanna - St. Martin - March 2009

What could be better than a chance to practice French, get a tan and enjoy wonderful Caribbean hospitality?

After her first real winter in Connecticut, Madison requested sunshine and a chance to try out her newly acquired French. With our best friends Syd and Chloe, we headed to La Samanna in St. Martin for a week of just that.

La Samanna is set on a beautiful stretch of white sand beach and perfectly blue Caribbean waters. We were lucky enough to try out their brand new villas, set on the cliff overlooking the property. With four bedrooms, a grand living room, dining room, kitchen and swimming pool, it was the perfect place for a house party. We spent our days enjoying the beach and the water (including a snorkel trip) and our evenings exploring the lively island.

The warmth of the people and the sun were just the perfect way to start spring.

Paris & Provence – without the crowds

What better way to celebrate the holidays with family than a few days in Paris and a villa rental in Provence?

We rented a lovely apartment in the Marais and spent a few days in the city of lights visiting museums, skating at the Hotel de la Ville, and taking tours with our good friend and favorite guide – Antoinette.

On Christmas Eve we took the TGV to Avignon and drove to our home for the next week – a beautiful five-bedroom villa in the village of beaumes-de-Venise.

We spent our days exploring Provence – colorful and festive and free of any tourists. We toured the Luberon, Les Beaux, Vaisonla Romain, Avignon and St.Remy. We shopped local markets and cooked in the beautifully well-equipped kitchen, replete with La Cornue stove. We explored Christmas markets and local churches displaying their nativity scenes. We skated on outdoor rinks and sampled lots of hot chocolate.

Our favorite outing was to the truffle market in Templiers where we saw truffles being purchase by locals and restauranteurs, and indulged in all things made with

truffles. We were even invited to a school gym for a fund-raising truffle breakfast!

Our home came with a lovely host that served as our concierge, tour guide and connection to the local festivities.

If you’re looking for a charming escape from holiday madness and would like to experience Provence as an insider, I highly recommend Christmas in Provence!

Greek Odyssey - August 2008

Our Greek Odyssey started with a week on the Peloponnese Peninsula where we explored Delphi, Olympia, Mycenae, Nafplion and Athens with our wonderful guide Antony.

He brought the Greek Mythology and ancient history alive for us through his stories and tours and we thoroughly enjoyed the living history lesson.

Next we set sail for the Aegean aboard the three-masted sailboat Panorama. She holds 40-45
passengers and this trip, arranget along well. For a week we sailed the Greek Isles, stopping at Sifnos, Santorini, Kos, Patmos, Naxos, Syros. The Aegean is in control and several days we were blown off course and ended up at different islands than anticipated. Flexibility is key when sailing these isles, and having a small boat makes that easy because you can dock or anchor anywhere.

Mornings were generally spent exploring the islands and sampling local fare, and afternoons spent enjoying the wine dark Aegean – swimming, Kayaking or a crowd favorite, diving off the boat.

The kids dressed as Greek Gods and served us dinner, performed a Greek Tragedy, painted pottery and learned some folk dances. They embraced the culture and made enduring friendships.

As we sailed back into Pireus our well-travelled teens declared this to be the perfect combination of History, Culture, Sun and Fun!

Small Yacht Cruising in Alaska - July 2008

I experienced a wonderful adventure with American Safari Cruises, on board the 12 passenger Safari Escape. We traveled Alaska's inside passage from Prince Rupert to Juneau over 9 days. It's a little more challenging to get to/from than the usual Vancouver or Seattle jumping off points, but it means getting to the good stuff sooner and only sailing during the day.

The Escape is a small ship with one "master cabin," one "junior suite" and four very cozy but comfortable cabins (two doubles, two twins). It's close quarters, but very comfortable. Perfect for a family to charter.

We had an outstanding crew of six (yes, for 12 passengers) that work very hard and are very knowledgeable about the region. Our captain and first mate spent many years with Lindblad, and our trip leader was a wealth of knowledge.

The small ship allows for a lot of flexibility in the schedule, taking time to stop when you find wildlife, getting into the zodiac and kayaks on a moments notice, and deciding to spend the night in an interesting cove. We spent a lot of time kayaking, hiking and exploring by zodiac. The ship always anchors at night, and they are very accommodating of guests interests and requests.


Shore excursions were basically tours with interesting locals. For the most part, we avoided the big ships and their destinations, instead focusing on wildlife and small villages.

The food on board was incredible. Always a meat, fish and vegetarian option, three meals a day cooked to order. Freshly baked muffins every morning that you could small all over the boat, and cookies in the afternoon that they would deliver to you while kayaking!

The beauty of seeing Alaska on the Safari Escape is that we could explore places on a whim and stay longer if we were enthralled with a place. One evening we were kayaking in a cove and found a pod of whales had joined us. We over-nighted there, throwing out a crab pot, and enjoyed the cove the next day as well (while feasting on fresh crab) and did not have to hurry on to our next destination.