Turkey

In February I was the guest of a colleague who runs the best travel company in Turkey. For 10 days were escorted around the country by a wonderful guide named Atilla. He taught us so much about the history and culture of this mysterious country that straddles the European and Asian continent.

Our journey started in Istanbul, a rich and exotic city that deserves a long stay. We visited the immense Church of St. Sophia, the serene Blue Mosque, named for the colorful blue Iznik tiles that adorn the interior as well as some lesser-know and even more beautiful mosques. We explored the world of the Sultans at Topkapi Palace and learned some of the colorful stories of the infamous harem. We descended underground into the Basillica Cistern, a stunning underground reservoir constructe in 532 AD. Istanbul is full of little jems of churches, such as the Church of St. Savior in Chora, containing stunning mosaics and frescoes, and small museums like the Turkish and Islamic Art museum containing world-class collections. We also enjoyed experiencing the more residential “Asian Side” of the Bosphorus, where most of the residents of Istanbul live. We stayed at a variety of hotels, including the beautiful Ciragan Palace on the Bosphorus and the centrally located Four Seasons built in a former prison. These are the best two hotels in Istanbul, along with a new Four Seasons on the Bosphorus. There are also some unique little hotels in the heart of the city for those who prefer a more local feel.

We soaked up the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar, and with the aid of our friend and personal shopper, Colette, managed to haggle for some beautiful rugs, pottery, linens, jewelry and other treasures. The Turks enjoy bargaining, inviting you into their shops for tea and conversation.



Then we headed south to Izmir and visited one of the seven wonders of the ancient world – Ephesus. Famous for its Temple of Artemis, but with so much to see – The impressive Hadrian Temple, the newly excavated Terrace Houses, the Celsus Library and Great Theatre – Ephesus is one of the best preserved examples of Greek architecture. After visiting the museum containing many of the artifacts found at the site, we visited the House of Virgin Mary, where the Virgin is said to have lived the last years of her life.




From Bodrum we flew to Kayseri in central Turkey and explored the region of Cappadocia. We stayed at the Anatolian Houses, carved into the unique conical rock outcrops that cover the landscape – yes, you sleep in caves! The best way to view these “fairy chimneys” that look straight out of a Dr. Seuss book is by hot air balloon. We went on an early morning flight – when the air conditions are best – which was breathtaking. After breakfast we explored the Goreme Open Air Museum – where 365 churches and chapels are carved into the rocks. Early Christians escaping persecution constructed these churches and lived here in a monastic style. Some are still richly decorated with frescoes, especially those in the Dark Church.

From Goreme we drove through the spectacular Pasabag Valley to Kaymakli, where we descended into an underground city carved five levels below ground. These complexes were carved by Early Christians to avoid invaders.

Another unique experience was the opportunity to observe Whirling Dervishes perform the Sema Ritual at a restored caravanserai, an ancient inn built along the silk road. This was not a performance; there was no introduction, explanation or applause. We were merely observing this spiritual ritual which has always been a mystery to me.

The Anatolian region is famous for it’s ceramics, and we visited a local workshop in the town of Avenos where the red soil is perfect for making the clay and generations of painters create masterpieces. There is a great deal of Greek influence still in this region, and in the picturesque village of Mustafapasa, a perfectly preserved Greek village, we had lunch in a local home.



The food throughout the country was fantastic. Each meal was an event – a parade of soups, salads, meat and fish. Lots of small courses, each distinct and delicious, finishing with a strong Turkish coffee and hopefully some to read your future in the grounds. Some of my favorite discoveries were borek (flakey cheese filled pastry), manti (tiny lamb filled dumplings), Testi Kebab (lamb cooked in a clay pot which is broken open at the table) and the endless preparations of eggplant.

The Turks are delightful people, eager to share their culture and welcoming hosts. A trip to Turkey is a perfect combination of an exciting city, unique country side, rich culture and beautiful coastline for relaxation. And they have yet to adopt the Euro, so it’s much better value than Euro-based economies.